Notes From Nowhere

Allegedly true story: Richard Avedon sits in his studio, looks through some contact sheets. Someone comes in, asks, “will you join us tonight at the opening of the new […] show?” Avedon doesn’t even look up, says, “No, thanks, I’m only interested in my own work.”

I understand that attitude is not en vogue today. Still, I feel there are few things more liberating than to skip yet another Chelsea opening night at the last minute, and rather take a walk in the park. Like back in the day when you skipped school, went to a café instead, and found half a dozen of your classmates there.

These cones from Central Park East, at the entrance somewhere around 100th Street.

Today I was wearing a shirt, a sweater, a coat, and pants that I usually wear during the winter. Same for the shoes. There was some kind of thick fog outside that reminded me of November in Sicily.

Tonight, to cheer myself up, I made this photo in my yellow kitchen.

A year ago or so, Jens sent me an email saying that Harlem now has a pizzeria that is quite like a place in Berlin. If you’ve ever been to Berlin, you’ll know that the subway runs partly underground, and partly on an elevated construction. Beautiful pre-war industrial architecture, and a great way to get a feel for the city.

And here’s the cultural analogy. In some strange and unexpected way, Harlem is like Eastern Berlin. The steel constructions of the Manhattan subway at 125th street are a place where you can perceive it. Sadness and the will to have fun. The presence of bygone times and the ubiquity of change. Something like that.

And what’s better than a great pizza place underneath these testimonials of modernist thought? The place in Berlin is called the Zwölf Apostel (Twelve Evangelists) in Mitte. Arguably, it’s a little bit touristy. But still, to be praised for reliably good pizza.

Anyway, back to Manhattan. I finally went to the place that Jens had mentioned: Covo Pizzeria, at Riverside Viaduct Drive and 135th. They serve a fine pizza, brick oven and everything. Thin, authentic, hearty. Everything comes on beautifully painted plates. You’ll almost forget that you didn’t make it to the Maremma this summer. Quite an achievement. Anyway, sitting there after a walk in Riverside Park will make you happy, and less homesick for Europe. For this, the place gets my high recommendation, four stars ****.